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Surf
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Le surf n'est comparable à rien d'autre.
C'est des coups de soleil sur le dos.
C'est de retourner à line up pour "une de plus", dix fois.
C'est le mélange de la wax, et du sable brulant.
C'est de l'eau chaude, de l'eau salée, et la bouche sèche.
