Surf
par The bottom turn
le 20 mars 2012
Injury's suck theres no way of glossing over it making it sound better than it is, but you try to, you kid yourself you even start to believe it ''oh its ok it wont take too long'' you tell yourself over and over again. You start to fill your days with other stuff and you get on with it. But when your constantly striving for some kind of optimum wave riding experience to put a grin on your dial and it controls your every thought day in day out and then WHAM its gone, injury's really do suck....